Despite living in WA for over a decade, Kalbarri was a place I had only visited for a short overnight stay. I had walked along the beautiful gorges and seaside cliffs, and had seen the rather scary looking Murchison River bar entrance during a large swell. Fishing, however, was something I had never tried in this scenic area. I did not really have any expectations when invited on a kayak fishing trip with a few lads from yakfishwest, but it was soon to become one of my favourite places.
The crew – Matt and Danna Checksfield with their baby Marvin, Erin and I, Kev and Katie Frampton with young Lil and Damian D’Mello.
Experienced yak fishermen Matt Checksfield, Damian D’Mello and Kevin Frampton were also on the trip, along with our families. With a couple of very young children in tow, our trips were limited to a few hours each morning and a base in Kalbarri town was convenient for us all. During the 7 hour drive from Perth, there was only one thing on our minds – May Mackerel.
Erin and I were happy to be back at Kalbarri, even managed time for a bit of a Gorge walk.
I was the only fisherman on the trip who had never caught a Spanish Mackerel from the kayak, so was pretty keen to do so. Preparation was they key – I spent hours at home in the week before preparing Damian D’Mello’s Mackie Rigs, known as “DDR’s” in the WA yakfishing scene. These versatile rigs are weighted to enable a large garfish to be trolled (without twisting) at depths ranging from right at the bottom in 30 metres of water, to near the surface. They also work at ultra low speeds, a godsend in a kayak where the “motor” is your heart, lungs and muscles. It is amazing how much the drag from a couple of large fast deep diving lures will increase the effort required to move a kayak, and they are not a great option for pedal or paddle power. Instructions for Damians kayak Mackerel rig will be detailed separately.
The river bar crossing
Ready for my first bar crossing
Despite my fear, our first crossing of the Kalbarri bar was uneventful and quite easy due to the calm conditions. There were huge schools of baitfish frolicking on the surface, acting surprisingly relaxed given the many predators in this area. We soon found out why – the falling barometer and low water temperatures combined into conditions that left the pelagic fish without an appetite. We did not see a fish or get a touch the whole morning. Heading back, a little disappointed, we were soon to find out just how much a change in air pressure can change the fishing – overnight.
Red Bluff Beach Launch
It was even calmer the next morning, and first light for the day found us with rigged kayaks lined up on a beautiful beach near town. Although there were a few larger sets of swell that could wipe us out, a carefully timed departure found us all safely out in the reflected glow of the rising sun. Kev announced that he had just seen a Mackie leap from the water, and with anticipation my trolled garfish was deployed. A large downrigged snapper weight kept the rig close to the bottom in 20 metres of water. I was moving at about 2 knots, and had only been fishing for 10 minutes when I felt the need to take a leak. I find it hard to pee and pedal my kayak at the same time, so I started drifting, opened my fly and just as I started to relax….
Zzzzzzzinnngggg! My rod bent over and braid started to pour off my reel at a speed that had me worried. There was no time for modesty, my fly stayed undone while I grabbed the rod and took chase. By the time I held the rod, over half the line was gone and pursuing the fish was necessary. Although I had never caught a Mackie from the yak before, this felt like no other fish I had ever caught, so I was pretty sure it was my new target. After the first run, I felt like I had control and started to retrieve line – then it went slack. Disappointed, I wound in the limp line, only to find the fish had swum straight towards me from the distance and was hanging deep below me in over 20 metres of water. Bringing it up to the surface proved to be a kayak stability exercise. Though the tackle could handle my drag setting, I found it necessary to loosen this drag during the repeated runs or my kayak would flip. I never dare to dangle my legs overboard while landing fish from kayaks, so had one leg stuck up in the air on the opposite side of the kayak for stability. The marvellous sight of a long silvery striped shape reflected from the depths and my first yak mackie came towards the kayak. He was soon on the surface, but the battle was only half won.
A kayak caught fish is only “landed” when you get back to land.
Now I had to get a 1.3 metre fish approaching 20kg into the kayak, while avoiding its razor sharp teeth and ultra sharp treble hooks hanging from his mouth. Of course I landed him on the side of the kayak where my sounder and rod holder are mounted, making this even tricker. Damian had been watching the fight and came to the rescue with his fantastic hawiian kage gaff. This gaff, which is basically a straight, threaded rod with a pointy end, speared the fish easily. After much effort Damian and I hauled it into the kayak. I was stoked at my first yak Mackie, one so long and heavy that I had to head back to shore to offload it before continuing fishing. The surf landing was interesting. With a Mackie tail hanging over my shoulder I frantically paddled and leapt out of the kayak to avoid the occasionally killer shore dump.
Captain Kev
Heading back out, a lot lighter than when I came in, my expectations were pretty high. I found the other guys, still only a few hundred metres from the launch spot and cruising near the spectacular Red Bluff cliffs. I arrived just in time to catch Kevin Frampton fighting something rather heavy and fun to christen his brand new Hobie Adventure Island (on its maiden voyage). After 30 minutes, a hefty Samson Fish was hauled over the side outrigger by an exhausted Kev, a great achievement given the confines of a kayak. This was photographed and released, an epic fish for Kev from a kayak. What is most amazing is how he hooked it. In 26 metres of water, he was trolling a surface popper about 10 metres behind him when the Samson nailed it. Far from being a fluke, he also caught an smaller Amberjack in the same way to complement its cousin Samson.
Kevs great Samson
Meanwhile, Matt had done battle with a shark while I was landing the Mackerel. Then that scourge (but natural) fish of the sea turned up, the North West Blowie. These things are persistent when they find out that there is a feed of fresh garfish on hand, and often hunt in packs. Once they find you, I reckon they follow the kayak until you move off quickly without bait in the water. With teeth that can bite through thick steel hooks, you need to be really careful – they can effortlessly bite off a finger. And they are large fish, 60-70cm, as Matt repeatedly kept finding out that day.
Matt and Kev enjoying the amazing conditions
Meanwhile the Mackie master, Damien, was having a slow day. He landed a Pink Snapper that we would have been proud of in Perth, but somehow it was shrugged off as just a snapper up in Kalbarri. The Mackies were certainly still about, and I felt violent Mackie attacks on the end of my line a few times. A few were bitten off above the trace, decreasing my DDR rig supply while a few baits were bitten in half. After some interesting depth sounding under the cliffs (massive schools of buff bream) we started heading back to shore. Most of us had all landed back on the beach when a massive school of something started busting up a few hundred meters from shore – typical! Damian was lagging behind and still on the water and just happened to be right in the middle of this feeding frenzy of these very large tuna (possibly yellowfin). After a brief hookup he lost one and the school moved on, but it just shows the possibilities from a kayak around Kalbarri.
A chat on the water
It was only when trying to carry my Mackie across the camping ground to the fish cleaning table that I realised how heavy it was. We had plenty of visitors to view our catch, and the fillets that came off were huge relative to the size of the fish. Damian commented that my Mackie was fat, oily and very well conditioned compared to other Mackies he had caught. After filleting, I made some sashimi from the little bits of flesh on the frame that was missed by the fillets. The onlookers and I shared this and it was very tasty. We also had an awesome bbq’d Mackie meal that night, and feeding 7 adults barely made a dent in our Mackie fillet supply.
Fresh Mackie fillets for dinner, yum! Simply BBQ’d it is up there with the best fish I’ve eaten.
Our final morning of fishing found us braving the Murchison bar on a higher swell. My wife, Erin, was with us this time, as we had a new Hobie Revolution kayak, and I was keen for her to catch a Mackie too. We stopped just prior to the bar and observed. It was rougher compared to my previous trip and every 5 minutes or so waves would break right across the channel we were planning to travel through. Timing was everything, and eventually Erin and I chickened out while Matt and Damian safely sprinted through between the sets. Erin and I landed on the rock bar adjacent to channel, and I started popping for tailor. 30 minutes of observing the crossing was enough to work up the courage to navigate the channel, we could do this! Rigging the kayaks free of swinging treble hooks in case of a capsize, we dashed through the channel. It was choppy and a few very steep waves crashed against each other just as the kayak was under them, so it was tricky and there were plenty of opportunities for a capsize. We made it through safe and dry, adrenaline pumping, happy to have conquered the bar.
A break on a rock bar, contemplating crossing the river mouth
It was a great day on the water past the chaos of the bar and we came within radio range of the other lads. Both were hovering not far from the launch spot, which was promising, as they had plans to go further South. This must mean that they had found fish! A quick radio to Damian confirmed this, and both he and Matt were rerigging after a triple hookup on Mackies (Damian hooked up on two rods at the same time). They both had fish stolen by sharks, and the sounder showed a huge school of baitfish beneath us. I sidled over to Erin in the shiny new Revolution kayak, which I have not installed forward rod holders on yet. A big garfish on her DDR rig was deployed, and the rod placed in the rear rod holder with a fairly loose drag (to help her to remove the rod in case of hookup).
Launching in the river prior to the bar is very gentle
She had a massive hookup almost immediately and line started pouring off the reel at a high velocity. It was difficult for her to remove the rod from the rear rod holder due to the force, and I looked on with anguish as the line on the spool got less and less. Eventually she managed to remove the rod and tighten the drag, and made headway on the fish. Unfortunately the large fish broke the thin wire, and was just one of several Mackerel that we lost that afternoon.
Matts Mackie
Meanwhile, Matt (and all of us) were getting frustrated with bait destroying NW Blowies again. Matt announced half heartedly that he had hooked up, but then seemed to take 10 minutes to land it, which was odd. Up came a Mackie, and a nice one of average size for Kalbarri.
Matt getting ready to land a fish
The Mackerel and NW blowies were decimating my bait and DDR rig supply, and both ran out at the same time. This was conveniently at the end of the fishing part of our holiday and co-incided with an increasing swell and a worried Erin, who wanted to get back across the bar. Leaving the other chaps out there, Erin and I headed back early and crossed the bar again. This was just as scary on the way back in (particularly with scared boat skippers charging through right next to us). The serenity of the Murchison River inside the bar was pleasant to float around in also.
Damian with his horse of a Mackie. He had to untangle this from a cray pot to land it.
An hour or so later, Damian and Matt landed in the sheltered river a stones throw from our caravan park. Strapped on the back of Damians kayaks was a massive 1.4m Spanish Mackerel, which he apparently had lots of fun untangling from a cray pot. Matt had also landed another nice Pink Snapper to go with his previously landed Mackie.
Matt and Damo both had a good day
One of the best parts of this trip was just how close we were fishing to the township of Kalbarri, enabling us all to be back enjoying time with our families by lunchtime. We caught large Pink Snapper, Amberjack, Samson Fish, Spanish Mackerel and heaps of horrible North West Blowies all within easy kayaking distance from shore. If the weather was bad, we could have chased Mangrove Jacks, Mulloway, Bream and Giant Herring in the river or Jumbo Tailor amongst the washes. But with our great weather, we had the opportunity to fish under beautiful ocean cliffs and out from beaches that we could view from a different perspective compared to the average shore tourist.
For those without a kayak, there’s still stacks to do in Kalbarri. I’ll be back!
Gorgeous Gorges
Lake Kalbarri
A sunset tailor shore session with Damian D’Mello to finish the trip